Whist visiting the English College for Seminarians in Valladolid  we attended the Triduum services at the college but we  were also able to see several of the Semana Santa processions in the wonderful town of Valladolid. It was quite an experience. On  Maundy Thursday morning the seminarians were part of the very long procession of clerics in the Chrism Mass at the cathedral. It was an incredible experience for them, to take part in a huge Chrism Mass, as many had never been to this in their own diocese. On Good Friday they led the grand procession of 33 floats depicting the passion and death of Jesus as the drum beat resounded throughout the city.

The city had something of a festive air as families strolled around the town meeting up with other family members or friends for coffee or snacks. Yet even though it felt like a holiday, the atmosphere was still quite sombre and low key. It was as though people were aware something immensely important was about to happen.  As the days of Holy Week progressed the atmosphere seemed to build.

If you are familiar with the Spanish culture, you will know these lovely warm people cannot go two minutes without chatting and yet  wherever you went, they were waiting around in silence or talking in low voices.

We saw the Confraternities preparing and bands of young musicians, many older teenagers but younger ones too, as they began to line up in silence for the processions to begin at various churches around the city. They began their long slow mournful processions with tableaux of the passion of Christ, often carried (and occasionally wheeled), by members of various brotherhoods, some with their faces covered, others not.

The haunting memory I will forever retain was the never-ending slow drum beat throughout the week reverberating  around Valladolid creating a sombre atmosphere. There were many visitors to the city, with many family members returning home for the processions and celebrations and hundreds upon hundreds took part.

The deep silence amongst the onlookers as they waited for the processions was evidence of  their deep respect for the events  which were about to take lace. I wondered as I watched how many of these folk went to church regularly, maybe a third, but here the Church was bringing Christ out to the people on the streets.

It seemed to be the parishes who were involved in the confraternities, which included many women.

In the English College where we stayed, we encountered a local parish priest who had requested permission to bring  their float of Our Lady of Sorrows into the college chapel and begin a procession from there on Maundy Thursday. Why not from the parish you may wonder! Well, the parish was the other sie of the railway lines and the statue would not fit under the new railway subway which had been built, so the Rector was happy to oblige. It is creating a new connection between the college and the local community.

It meant the brotherhood set up the float in the chapel with their parish priest and they  prayed and were blessed by the Rector of the College as they began the procession. The seminarians formed a guard of honour as the statue was brought out on to the street. They returned to the chapel after our Mass of the Last Supper and during a   very special moment the college sang the ‘Salve Regina’.

The crowds of Spaniards on the street, many of whom knew this hymn, allowed the college to sing it alone as their way of giving honour to Mary.  Then the  leader of the brotherhood brought the Rector a candle which had been lit that morning in the cathedral by the Bishop and it stayed by the altar of repose that evening.

It was a real privilege to share this week with the English college and the people of Valladolid. A place of deep prayer and catholicity. Seminarians, families and staff, we are praying for you.